Saftey Equipment
Chainsaw Safety
Chainsaw Safety in Use.
With a basic understanding of your chainsaw and how it is intended to be used, you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise from kickback or other unexpected reactions. You will also be able to maximize the life and utility of the saw and its cutting attachments.
By wearing the apropiate P.P.E ( Personal Protection Equipment). You will also be safer when using and wearing it also make you feel a bit more confident about usinbg the saw.
Helmet
The helmet attempts to protect the user's head against impact with the cutter bar of the chainsaw should a kickback occur. This can only be successful if the chain brake has operated to stop the cutter chain. A chain running at full speed easily cuts the helmet.
The helmet also protects against impacts from small falling objects, such as a dead branch from a tree being felled.
The image shows a helmet which integrates visor and ear defenders into one unit. This is a very popular arrangement with chainsaw users.
In the EU, the helmet must meet the requirements of EN397.
Visor or Goggles
A visor or goggles reduce the chance of chips penetrating the user's eyes.
The relatively flimsy visor, with imperfect coverage of the face, is considered acceptable because the chips produced by chainsaws are of relatively uniform size and speed. Unlike other woodworking tools, a chainsaw produces little or no sawdust, only chips. The chips are too large to fit through the visor's mesh.
Some chainsaw users prefer conventional safety goggles. The choice may depend on the environment. The visor provides better ventilation for hard work in hot weather. Often, both safety goggles and a visor are employed for superior protection.
In the EU, a visor must comply with EN1731, or goggles must comply with EN166.
Ear defenders
Ear defenders and ear plugs attenuate noise to levels that cause little or no damage to the user's hearing. The chainsaw is very loud, typically 115 dB.
In the EU, ear defenders must comply with EN352.
Trousers
Special fabrics have been developed for chainsaw clothing, and this development is still very active. Conventional fabric is useless at protecting against a running chainsaw, being immediately cut through.
There is a real struggle between making a fabric proof against more violent impact, and making it light, flexible and comfortable enough for the user. Clothes which make the user too hot, or which prevent the user moving easily, are a safety problem in themselves. A worker suffering from heat exhaustion is not safe. Extra fabric layers can be added to clothing to improve cut resistance, but clothes which cannot be cut at all by a powerful saw are impractical, even with modern fibres. What is worse, saw and chain technology seems to be outstripping fabric technology. High power saws with aggressively cutting chains are almost impossible to protect against.
A classification scheme has been developed in the EU to rate trousers, and fabric in general, for protection against cutting.
Chainsaw Fabric Classification Class Max chain speed m/s
0 16
1 20
2 24
3 28
The chain speed is specified in the manual for a chainsaw. Higher class trousers cost more and are heavier, so there is an advantage to choosing the trousers to match the saw.
There are two standard types of trousers, type A and type C. Type A protects only the front of the legs, and can be supplied as chaps, worn over conventional work clothes, or as conventional trousers. Type C gives protection all round the legs and are almost always worn as ordinary trousers, not over another garment. Chaps are generally used for occasional, farm or homeowner applications. Professional chainsaw operators would choose trousers for comfort and ease of movement, with fallers, ground workers and firewood cutters opting for class A trousers because of the low risk of being cut in the back of the leg. Climbers and tree surgeons would have to wear type C, as they will be cutting from a wider variety of positions. Type C trousers are, of course, highly insulating, and may lead to heat stress if worn for labour intensive operations such as firewood cutting.
Chainsaw protective fabric works on a number of principles. The outermost layer can be made both tough and slippery, to protect against trivial damage which could compromise the filler material. Beneath this, long, loose fibres of ballistic nylon or Kevlar are laid in layers. When a saw contacts the trousers, the outer layer is immediately cut through but the nylon or Kevlar is drawn out and wraps around the saw's drive sprocket, locking it solid and halting the chain, limiting damage to the operator's leg. After stopping a saw, the trousers are scrapped, and the saw must be field-stripped to remove the fibres and allow it to run again. Chainsaw protective trousers in the EU must comply with EN381-5.
Gloves
Chainsaw gloves have cut-proof fabric protection like that for trousers, but only on the back of the left hand. It's especially important that work gloves are flexible, which limits how much padding they can have. Experience has shown that most chainsaw injuries to the hands occur on the back of the left hand.
In the EU, chainsaw gloves must comply with EN381-7.
Boots
Chainsaw boots are based on ordinary steel-toe boots, but have layers of chainsaw protective fabric on the exposed front surfaces. They are available in lace-up leather or rubber wellington boot versions.
In the EU, chainsaw boots must comply with EN345-2.
Logo for fabric
Chainsaw logo
In the EU, chainsaw trousers, boots and gloves (the items containing chainsaw protective fabric) must carry a special chainsaw logo. This shows that the fabric is of a type tested to protect properly, and also shows the class of protection, the rated maximum chain speed.
Additional Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
First Aid Kit
In the UK, workers are required to carry a first aid kit containing at least a large wound dressing.
Whistle
In the UK, workers are recommended to carry a whistle to call for help if they are injured. Colleagues may be close by, but unable to hear over the noise of chainsaw(s) still running. The whistle tends to overcome this
OPPERATING A CHAINSAW
. Before using any chainsaw, thoroughly read the manufacturer's operating and safety instructions.
2. Do not operate a chainsaw when you are fatigued, if you have been drinking alcoholic beverages, or if you have been taking prescription medication or non-prescription drugs.
3. Use safety footwear, snug-fitting clothing, protective gloves, and eye, hearing, and head protection.
4. When cutting, hold the saw firmly with both hands, with thumbs and fingers encircling both chain saw handles. Grip the saw with the right hand on the rear (throttle) handle and the left hand on the front handle, even if you are left handed. A firm grip will help you maintain control of the saw in the event of a kickback or other unexpected reaction. Keep the chainsaw handles dry, clean and free of oil or fuel mixture to avoid slipping and to aid in control of the saw.
5. Chainsaws are designed to be run at full speed. Maintain a full throttle setting while cutting to maximize your productivity and to reduce fatigue for safer operation.
6. Cut while standing slightly to the side, out of the plane of the cutting chain and guide bar to reduce the risk of injury in the event you lose control of the saw.
7. Carry the chain saw with the engine stopped, the guide bar and cutting chain to the rear, and the muffler away from your body. When transporting your chainsaw, always use the appropriate guide bar scabbard.
8. Do not overreach or cut above shoulder height. It is very difficult to control the saw in awkward positions.
9. Do not operate a chainsaw in a tree or from a ladder unless you have been specifically trained and are equipped to do so. There is a risk that you can lose your balance because of cutting forces on the saw or movement of material being cut.
10. Some cutting tasks require special training and skills. Remember, there is no substitute for good judgment. If you are in doubt, contact a professional.
11. To avoid the risk of kickback, make sure that the area in which you are cutting is free from obstructions. Do not let the nose of the guide bar contact a log, branch or any other obstruction while you are operating the saw. Do not cut near chain link fences, wire fences, or in areas where there is loose or scrap wire.
12. Do not start cutting trees until you have a clear work area, secure footing, and a planned retreat path from the falling tree.
13. Be careful in the event the wood closes in and pinches the saw. The 'push' force which is exerted when the top chain is pinched can add unexpectedly to any 'pull' force you may use when attempting to pull the saw free. You may pull the moving chain into yourself.
14. Use extreme caution with cutting small-size brush and saplings because slender material may catch the cutting chain and be whipped toward you or pull you off balance.
15. When cutting a limb or sapling that is under tension (called a springpole), be alert for springback so that you will not be struck by the limb or chainsaw when the tension in the limb is released.
16. Do not allow other persons to be near the chainsaw when starting the saw or cutting with it. Keep by-standers and animals out of the work area.
17. Keep all parts of your body away from the cutting chain when the engine is running.
18. Do not operate a chainsaw that is damaged, improperly adjusted or not completely assembled. Be sure that the cutting chain stops moving when the throttle control trigger is released. If you are in doubt regarding the mechanical condition of your saw, consult your servicing dealer.
19. Follow the manufacturer's sharpening and maintenance instructions for the chainsaw. Sharpening cutting chain requires two steps: sharpening of the cutting edge and adjustment of the depth gauge setting. When in doubt, see your servicing dealer for advice or repairs.
20. Use only replacement bars and cutting chains specified by the manufacturer, or the equivalent. Guide bars and cutting chains affect not only performance, but kickback safety as well.
21. Maintain proper saw chain tension. A loose chain can come off the guide bar and can strike the operator.
22. All chainsaw service other than the items mentioned in the owner's maintenance instructions should be performed by competent chainsaw service personnel. Improperly performed maintenance may damage the saw and present a hazard to the operator. For example, if improper tools are used to remove the flywheel or if an improper tool is used to hold the flywheel in order to remove the clutch, structural damage to the flywheel could occur and could subsequently cause the flywheel to break.
23. Use caution when handling fuel. Move the chainsaw at least 10 feet away from the fueling point before starting the engine. Do not smoke while refueling your saw. Use gasoline powered chainsaws only in well ventilated areas.
SOME GOOD SAW CHAIN ADVICE:
1. Saw chain is made to cut only one thing: wood. Do not use saw chain to cut other materials, and never let your chain contact rocks or dirt during operation. Remember, your saw chain is moving in excess of 50 miles per hour. In just one second of contact with a rock or with the ground, each cutter will be impacted more than ten times.
2. Never force dull chain to cut. When it is sharp, saw chain is designed to feed itself into the wood, and needs only light pressure to cut efficiently. Dull chain produces fine wood dust, a sure sign that maintenance is required.
3. To maximize life of your guide bar and chain, maintain proper chain tension and use high quality lubricant.
4. Use only low kickback saw chain unless you have skills and are trained for dealing with kickback.
Saw Selection
There are three sizes of chain saws to choose from based upon the type of work. Lightweight saws have an 8 to 12 inch guide bar and are best for light work, cutting small branches, and felling very small trees (6 to 10 inch diameter at the cut). Midweight saws are equipped with a 14 to 20 inch guide bar and are excellent for frequent log cutting and felling of small trees (12 to 18 inch diameter at the cut). Heavy weight chain saws have a guide bar more than 20 inches long and are for professional use, not the average consumer. So, consider the type of work you have to do and select the saw accordingly.
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Prepare The Saw
Preventive maintenance always pays off with chain saws. Properly sharpened teeth will cut quickly, smoothly and more safely. Check the chain tension and lubrication system for proper function.
A clean air filter, good sparkplug, and effective muffler will make for a better running engine, making your work easier and safer. Follow the manufacturer's advice in the operator's manual when making adjustments to the chain or engine.
Be sure to wear gloves or cover the chain with a heavy rag when sharpening the saw teeth.The newly sharpened teeth will easily inflict injury. File or grind according to instructions for best performance.
Proper chain tension helps to ensure long chain life and safer cutting. A chain that is too loose will tend to derail and whip about dangerously. On the other hand, a chain which is too tight will bind and wear prematurely. All chains stretch with use and frequently need checking and readjusting. Good lubrication helps to prolong chain life and maintain tension adjustment. Check the oil often and refill according to instructions. Be sure to use the correct bar oil.
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Starting and Operating Techniques
Always use both hands when starting a chain saw, one to hold the saw and the other to pull the starter rope. Some chain saws can also be held down with a foot while starting Check the owner's manual for additional starting information. Grip the top handle of the saw firmly and pull the starter rope quickly. It is not a safe practice to start a chain saw while holding it in mid-air with one hand. Always start it on the ground on a stable surface.
Always use both hands to control the chain saw. Cutting a tree or limb while you have only one hand controlling the saw is very dangerous. Never force a chain saw through a cut, if it is properly sharpened and adjusted it will cut, almost by itself. Keep in mind that the hardness of the wood will have a major effect on how quickly it cuts.